My friend Michelle went to China to teach English
at the end of 1998. What follows are dispatches
that she sent between teaching assignments.31 jul 99 ... 16 aug 99 ... 19 aug 99 ... 24 aug 99 ... 1 sept 99 ... 5 sept 99 ... 14 sept 99 ... 22 sept 99
"Hey there everyone.
Hope everyone is doing well stateside (for those that are stateside). This past weekend I made the journey to the Great Wall -- a three- to four-hour drive outside Beijing. There are many different sections of the wall to view and I opted for the Lonely Planet recommendation (always a good one) at Simati, in the northeast.
It was rumored to be the most authentic and least preserved section of the Wall -- also quite a challenge to climb -- and the setting was expected to also be quite good. All I needed was a good, semi-cool day (less than 100 degrees with a slight breeze) to set out on my adventure. At 5 a.m. Saturday, the conditions were perfect.
Without going too much into the whole long journey, the entire experience was genuine China. I took a mini-bus, which should seat 12 to 14 comfortably, packed with about 35 people and headed out of town at 6:30 a.m. At about 8 a.m. the bus stopped somewhere, but not Simati.
After several minutes of debate in sign language with the bus driver, I was led to another bus with a chain-smoking driver screaming "Simati! Simati" I grabbed some food, entered the bus and waited antoher five minutes until another man grabbed my arm, pulled me off the bus, pointed to another bus and screamed "Simati! Simati!"
I laughed (as is the only thing one can do in such situations) and got onto the next bus. Another hour or so later -- with the mountains in full view -- the bus driver turned around, looked at me and smiled, screaming "No Simati! No Simati!"
At this point I was losing my cool at bit, but trying to remain calm. Several other people my age were on the bus, some who could speak "a little" English. Somehow they managed to explian that we were heading for another section of the wall, but seeing my subtle disappointment, they changed their plans and rerouted the bus for Simati. Never underestimate the kindness and generosity of the Chinese. They will do most anything to help a silly American like myself save a little face.
Once at the wall, my new friends got me in for free, and we all hiked up the slopes for about three hours -- with the mountain scenery growing more extravagant with each watchtower reached. The mountains were green, but not lush, and the valleys filled with farms and small villages. Those who live in the neighboring villages tend to work in tourism at different sections of the Wall and my adopted "guide" was an old, smiling man who held my hand and followed me up about three quarters of the way.
The Wall itself is preserved by the Chinese government in the more touristy spots, but Simati is not preserved past a certain point. It is at this more distant section that the Wall narrows and becomes only wide enough for one person to navigate. In some sections it is you, the Wall, and a cliff on either side.
After some time, my Chinese friends decided they did not want to go farther and another man opted to be my guide. But as I stepped up to the section where the dropoffs are on either side -- being late in the day -- I felt a strong need to retreat. The guide egged me on for a few more meters, but I turned back just before the final push to watchtower 13. Maybe another day.
Either way, it was an unforgettable day and a must for everyone on this mailing list. Those moumtains are so peaceful, quiet, and so very ancient. Don't miss it.
Love to everyone. Until next time, take care."
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"...I will be hitting the road (really, the rails) in about two days -- hopefully. I just finished my contract in Beijing and said a tearful goodbye to all my little students.
They were the most amazing and inspiring bunch I've had thus far and I was very sad to say goodbye. My fellow employees and I were treated to a goodbye Chinese feast and kareoke (Lord knows I still don't understand why Chinese people love this so much).
No, I did not indulge in Chinese opera -- I'm very aware of the Schaner genes and my ability to make children cover their ears as I sing "Twinkle, Twinkle ..." Still, it was quite funny. Several very drunk Chinese people singing to the equivalent of a fat, Chinese Barry Manilow. Quite the sight. But man, can they sing.
For the final goodbye with my kids, they had to give a performance in front of their parents. As all childhood performances go, something -- of course -- went wrong. The director of the school returned the tape of the song the children were to sing before the peromance, by accident.
Nonetheless, the kids had to sing the thing cold and they were amazing. They were all dresed up and so excited. They sang perfectly (of course) and I was even able to understand them myself.
Anyway, I should be getting on a train in the next couple of days and heading somewhere. I'm still not sure where I will be going, but will likely end up in Tibet sometime in the beginning of September. I'll send messages when I can.
I miss everyone terribly and hope you are all well."
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Well, I am deep in the heart and soul of China -- heading for the Sichuan province this evening on train number two. I saw the Terricotta Warriors (exactly as you'd picture them, only VERY touristy), walked around the streets of Xian (wild, interesting and a fairly large Muslim population), and climbed a mountain last night -- yes, night, as this is how the Chinese climb this mountain -- near a small town two hours east of Xian.
The moutain was straight out of picture book of China -- funky shaped peaks, very extreme rock faces (sorry, I don't know exactly how to describe this, but it was cool), and Oriental-styled (also suffering from a lack of descriptive vocabulary right now) trees hanging over the sides of cliffs.
The moutain is called Huashan (sp?) and is supposedly one of the four holy Buddist mountains in China. (again, I'm very tired, so I could be making this all up). I travelled to this little town with a 20-year-old -- yes, Jewish -- boy I met on the train. He was a huge pain in the ass and we ditched each other about 100 meters up the trail.
o there I was - surrounded by beautiful rock,. running rivers, and nightfall in a strange country when three nice Chinese boys came along and saved the day by pushing me (at times, literally) up the peak until the very end. The route was STEEP steps from beginning to end, surrounded by cliffs, and took about four hours to climb.
Beautiful. I took the cable car down.
Besides the scenery, the real China has been a bit frustrating in the past few days. I am a walking money machine to many of these people and this becomes quite irritating when it comes to paying for things like a can of Coke -- which becomes somewhat more expensive when they see my face.
I'm working it out as I go and trying to keep my heart and mind open -- to not give in to the despair and frustration that comes with so much poverty. I think these encounters may also have something to do with "tourist" areas, as it was the same in Turkey, and even in Aspen, at times.
So, here I am in a hotel in Xian, preparing for a nap and then a 17-hour overnight train trip to Chengdu. I should be planning the Tibet thing from there, and will update when I can.
Take care and love to all..."
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"Tashi-dali! (I think this is how it is spelled)
Hello from Lhasa! Yes, I am in Tibet - took the 6 a.m. flight this morning from Chengdu. I belive it would be premature to make too many observations, (altitude adjustments and lack of sleep aside) so I will only spew the first impressions and fill you all in later on the more beautiful experiences as they have yet to unfold. One thing is certain -- Tibet is Colorado at its best times ten.
Although Carbondale, Aspen, etc. etc., will not see their first snow dusted peaks for another few weeks, the mountains around Lhasa have felt their first dusting. This was the view from the airplane this morning as we flew just over the tops of the peaks and landed just short of an overflooded river. PLA troops are everywhere - more so than any I saw during my entire route through China.
After the two hour drive through the country (beautiful, beautiful country) we reached Lhasa only to be greeted by streets that looked very much like the rest of China and -- mostly due to a rainstorm -- a sort of depression in the city. Once the rain passed, we wandered thought the city to discover its beauty -- it's stone streets, old buildings, mostly happy people, many monks, as well as the sadness that has taken hold of those same people in recent years.
I'm not sure what I will come to discover about myself and this land in the next several weeks, but I am certain that this a place to be cherished. I'll write when I can. Take care. Love to all..."
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Hello everyone! I'm still in Tibet and happy to be so, although the smell of yak butter and the sight of small children -- and grown ones as well -- pissing in the street is a bit much to take. No, I haven't resorted to this sort of bathroom behavior quite yet, but the lack of toilet seats is failing to cause me the concern it once did.
It is on this note that I bring you my latest dispatch. I just returned to Lhasa from a three-day and two-night stint at Nam-Tzo Lake -- a six-hour journey by Landcruiser from Lhasa. To reach Nam-Tzo, one must endure several hours of "bone-jarring" (as one of my fellow passengers called it) driving through something that the Tibetans say is supposed to resemble a road.
After passing several nomadic tribes, many, many herds of yak and sheep, and banging my head on the roof of Landcrusier a few too many times, I reached this beautiful, perfectly blue lake situated at about 16,000 feet above sea level.
My travel partners included a friend of a friend from Hong Kong (I don't think I need to be reminded again of how small a world this is) and several others I met just before departure. Altitude sickness, of course, set in within a few hours and sleeping was not in the program.
However, in the middle of the night I awoke to take a pee (outside the room, of course, as the nomads told us upon arrival that the world was out toilet) and in my grumbling took a moment to stare up at the sky.
....
I must say that I had a moment of complete and total peace. Sitting there, under the moon and stars with my pants completely dropped and in a squatting position, I found G-d -- the true meaning of G-d. In front of me was a sparkling and huge salt lake lit by nothing but the moonlight. Up above was a half, cloud-covered sky and the most perfect, surreal sky I have ever experienced.
Behind me were these huge red rock walls and caves laced with prayer flags -- caves where great monks spent their time in search of enlightenment ( and lesser monks have spent their time in search of a toilet, but this is for another e-mail). I was in such a state of complete peace that I truly thought I would be contacted at that moment by a higher being and, of course, panicked and quickly ran to find someone to share it with.
My roommates also stumbled out of their beds, gazed at the sky and grumbled about the peaceful feeling, but as they made their way back to the room, I stayed behind. This time, I took the moment and relished the opportunity to be in Tibet -- this beautiful land of peace -- at this time in my life. I said a few Om Mani Padme Hung's and thanked the universe for my good fortune before returning to my little cement room for the night.
This is my story for now. I love you all so very much. I'll send more mail when I get to Nepal."
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I'm dropping everyone a note to let you know that I will be unavailable from Tuesday (you can write me today or tomorrow) until next Monday or Tuesday, as I will be traveling the Friendship Highway from Lhasa to Kathmandu with several others from Lhasa.
The trip will take us past many monestaries (oh, so many monestaries) and, of course, Mt. Everest -- I may even be there on Rosh Hashanah and I'm traveling with two Israelis). Cross your fingers for me that the weather will cooperate and I will have a chance to see the great mountain in this lifetime.
Once in Kathmandu, I'll send a full report. From there, I'll likely spend Yom Kippur in Nepal (yes, there are services in Kathmandu) and then, it's back to HK to get it all together for the next journey.
Saying goodbye to Tibet won't be easy, but travel here has not been so simple and it will be good to get to a place where I don't have to worry about a foreign army. But, I'll write more about that, as well, in Kathmandu.
I'll sign off with a scene from today's drive home from Samye Monestary, southeast of Lhasa, where I spent the past two days. Imagine Glenwood Springs with bigger mountains in a wider valley... Now, imagine an enormous, calm river flowing through the center of that valley... Now, imagine the San Luis Valley and the sight of the Great Dunes at sunset -- multiply that times ten and then, think of Independence Pass in late September, just before the leaves have fallen.
Mix all of that with the sight of 50, brightly dressed Tibetan pilgrims (and a handful of Western tourists) crossing this great, calm river in a big wooden boat, singing mantras and smiling. This is Tibet.
Take care. All my love."
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I just landed in Katmandhu (I never think I spell it right) last night after six days and seven, shower-free nights of travel on the Friendship Highway, and have been happily wandering around this beautiful, peaceful, happy, city for most of the morning. So many things to buy! Unfortunately, no ATMs so my money is limited and I may be back in East Asia much sooner than I would like. Nepal -- as everyone has told me -- is such a place of magic.
My journey through Tibet was both good and bad -- mostly incredible and I will never forget the experience, but not without hard times. I traveled with four others -- two Israelis and another couple, an American guy and a Japanese woman. The first 24 hours were great, but -- as things go when five people are living on top of one another -- things quickly diminshed and I had major difficulties with the Japanese woman. This did not let up the whole trip -- which did affect things, as much as I would have wished it had not.
On the positive side (or the moments in which I was not in her energy field) we made it to Everest on Erev Rosh Hashanah and woke to what the Tibetans at base camp described as the most perfect morning they had seen in months. The previous night was a sky of perect, brilliant stars and we spent it in a monestary that was about a two-hour walk from the foot of base camp.
In the morning, I hiked with the Israeli girl up to base camp (actually a tourist base camp, as the real one is about another hour's walk up the valley) and we made it there around noon. Truly a spectacular place -- with Everest nestled alone at the end and in the center of this wide valley that looks like a barren version of the Maroon Creek Valley. I took lots and lots of pictures, so I will scan them once developed and give you all a peek at that beautiful moment. Those photographers out there -- you would have been in heaven.
Truly, Tibet is a place where all those Colorado folks on my list would feel so at home, so at peace. The mountains, the people, the massiveness of the place makes you feel just overwhemed that there is such a spectacular place on this Earth -- and on such a massive scale.
In addition to the Everest experience, I also had a chance to see some of Tibet's more preserved and authentic monestaries and had a beautiful moment on the top of the Gyantse Kumbum with the Israelis and a monk.
As we were wandering through the Kumbum, searching for the secret door to the very top, a monk came along just as we were ready to give up and led us to the next level. Then, to the next level, and finally -- to the top on this little tin roof surrounded by prayer flags. So, there we were on top of this very ancient structure in this ancient place with a smiling monk. I complemented the monk on this little bracelet he was wearing and he smiled, took it off and gave it me. To repay him, we taught him how to count to 10. He was so happy. And, so was I.
There were many other moments as well -- sweet milk tea in Shigatse, barking dogs in Lhatse, flat tires along the way, views of the Himalayas from everywhere we looked, smiling Tibetan children running after the Land Cruiser everywhere we went, and of course, the many many bumpy Tibetan roads.
My wish is that I can continue this journey on into Nepal -- as these people are now such a part of my heart and the Nepalase just an extension of this experience. It is so nice to be in a FREE country -- as Tibet is not free and the reminder of this is so prevelant. It is a country under occupation, and the people are a people under occupation that are very much in need of their own self-determination.
I am happy that I did the trip, happy that I now know -- really know -- what is happening and how desperately something needs to be done to change it. (Yes, the journalist in me wanted to cause much trouble in Tibet).
This is all for now. Love to everyone and Happy New Year."
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I truly don't have much excitement to report, but thought I'd drop everyone a line and wish everyone a Happy -- but belated -- New Year.
In two days I will bring this chapter of my travels to an end and say goodbye, for now, to Nepal. As I was always told by those who came before me, it is a beautiful and amazing place, Nepal. I spent Yom Kippur hiking up to a view of the Annapurna Range and had the fortune of being caught in a fierce rainstorn in a small house with an extended Nepali family.
Two of the family's boys volunteered to be my porter (for a small fee, of course) and held my hands as the lightning and thunder and rain rolled on, and led me up to a safe place of sleep. I have spent about $2 a day on my hotels and $5 on my food. True Nepali hospitality. One could spend months in this country, happily.
In two days, I will head back to HK to gather my things and then, well, who knows. As much as I would love to just keep on going and drop on into India for the next six months, technology is not cooperating with me and I did not plan as well for a lack of ATMs as I should have.
Therefore, I must move on to make some more cash before the true journey can begin. As of two days ago, I had a job offer in Taiwan, but as plans go -- nothing is set in stone and revaluation may be warranted now that the earth has shaken. Until a decision is made, namaste to all.
Take care and all my love."
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