nmazca.com : bangkok, thailand, november 2005

last updated: 1 jan 2007

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A digitally stitched image of the Reclining Buddha at Wat Pho



The Reclining Buddha's head
[972 pixel version]



Detail of the Reclining Buddha
[800 pixel version]



The left foot of the Reclining Buddha, with mother of pearl inlay depicting various scenes and symbols
[1500 pixel version]



The right foot of the Reclining Buddha, with mother of pearl inlay depicting various scenes and symbols
[1500 pixel version]



Detailed image from the Reclining Buddha's feet



[972 pixel version]


[1025 pixel version]


[1024 pixel version]
In addition to discovering that the entire Reclining Buddha hall is covered with fresco paintings, I was surprised to see that those paintings are in the process of being restored. These are the best images I could manage in odd light conditions with slow film.



Spires at Wat Pho
by my Lady Friend
[999 pixel version]



A courtyard in the Wat Pho complex



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The Golden Mount at Wat Saket.

Abby and I arrived in Thailand on the eve of Loy Krathong, a national holiday during which special prayers for family and ancestors are made, and when people create small (or not so small) ornate papier-mache flowers that will be cast into water. Lit candles are placed onto these flower rafts, which are then put into streams and rivers as an offering to the spirits of the water. Since Thailand is a mostly Buddhist country, I would guess that these water spirits are the nagas referred to in Sanskrit.

Anyway, we noticed a sign in the hotel that invited guests to attend the Loy Krathong celebration at the pool. Later on, I picked up the Bangkok Post and noticed that there had been nighttime temple festivals going on for several days in advance this holiday. Again, I figured that there was similarity to the Tibetan celebration of Lha Bab Duchen, which is observed during the tenth lunar month (usually November). The paper mentioned the temple festival at the Golden Mount, and how people would be able to ascend the structure with offerings and view Buddha relics. That's all I needed to read.

We made our way to Wat Saket after being mistakenly taken to a nightclub for a live show (which, unfortunately, leaves one wondering exactly kind of show one might see since it's Bangkok). Traffic was so thick around the temple area that we jumped out of the taxi and followed everyone else that was on foot. We were the only foreigners around, as far as I could tell. The streetsides and walkways were jammed with food sellers, trinket stands, clothing booths, midway games, sweets and meats and treats, and electronics and shoes and kids, and guys with CBs plugged into speakers hawking jeans, and bread with neon sauces, and glowlight jewelry, produce stands, coconut drinks, and smiling monks, and there were even a couple of ferris wheels.

And above all of this noise and steam and smell of food and the toe-to-heel lines of people was the floodlit spire atop the temple, its spire wrapped in red fabric, and the banners and decorative lights around the perimeter waving in the wind. Which was carrying in a thunderstorm. After we finally found a pathway to the temple, we joined the parade of people who carried lotus buds and incense. Halfway up, the rain began to fall but it wasn't very strong, and it actually made things more comfortable. Lightning flashed in the distance, but so did fireworks from the Loy Krathong celebration on the river.

As we neared the top of the temple, we passed long rows of brass bells and chimes. People would slow down to strike and sound each one. Abby and I walked on by, not wanting to be in the way. We entered the shrine area to find several hundred people being herded either into the reliquary or onto the roof (or some other room I didn't know about). We shimmied around for a bit, trying to find a different entrance, but it was just as crowded in any direction. We then just got into line at the base of one of the staircases, and soon enough we were inside -- and out a few seconds later. Time enough to lay down the flower and incense (following other people's lead) and then take a look around at the roof. And then it was back into the rain, talking about the whole experience.



Speaking of experiences: what can I tell you about the tuk-tuk? Part jeep, part motorcycle. Seats two or three sort of comfortably, but there are no seat belts. Small, fast and loud: it's the wolverine or wombat of street vehicles. You've got to ride one to understand.



Wat Arun, The Temple of Dawn



A tour boat on the Chao Phraya River



Football at the temple



Thai flowers (no idea what kind, though)
[999 pixel version]



Monkey by a fountain



A dusky sunset that I had to hold the camera out of a window to capture.



Loha Prasat (right), otherwise known as The Iron Temple at Wat Ratchanadda. The 37 points on the roof are meant to represent the 37 qualities or attainments of a bodhisattva. A statue of King Rama III sits in the foreground (he commissioned the temple).



A typical roof and facade on a Thai temple. This was at temple that house the "Lucky Buddha" shown below.



The aforementioned Lucky Buddha








Bangkok, capital of the sacred and the secular. This is a shrine to Trimurti [detail], the creator of Earth and humanity in the Hindu pantheon.

The shrine is situated in a plaza next to a gigantic, Qatar-class shopping center, Central World Plaza (or Zen Central, if you note the sign above the shrine). This is cattycorner from the Erawan shrine and shopping center, which is also featured below.

The building in the background of the first image is Baiyoke Tower 2, which was the tallest building in the world (until Taipei 101, which I can see from the kitchen window, surpassed it).



Erawan shrine, which was built to correct a miscalculation in the astrological schedule for the adjoining shopping center's construction. It's a Thai feng shui thing.



A typical Thai temple shrine
[1315 pixel version]


Queen Sirikit on a billboard. The Thais revere their royal family. Tourists are advised not to make light of them.



Waiting for the light at Soi Sukhamvit 3



Disturbing